Rats Biting Humans
Rats very rarely bite humans, however there are circumstances where it can happen. This is not always a sign that your rat is aggressive, unhappy or even stressed but it can be. Below are some of the different types of biting that can be exhibited and some ways to start to correct bad behaviour
Test nibbles and bites
This is where a rat tastes or nibbles a finger or object and sees gentle pressure applied, sometimes getting more forceful but does not break the skin. This is more common in kittens and young rats who still explore much of the world with their teeth. It is not a true bite and so shouldn’t be seen as a negative thing. Instead take action when it gets a bit rough and the rats get a little over enthusiastic by picking up gently but firmly and telling them no. If they repeat then do it again and hold for longer. A light tap to a shoulder or similar can help reinforce the message if they are being stubborn but most rats pick up quickly when things are too rough as they genuinely don’t mean to hurt, just want to figure out what something is. This is particularly common with fingernails, elbows and toes (through clothing), anything with a plaster on it or around piercings. The rats are somewhat fascinated and often try and remove things they don’t feel belong.
This can also be an extension of grooming behaviour, a rat will nibble the fur of other rats when grooming, this helps clean dead cells, parasites etc. They often naturally start this with us too, not realising we don’t have a nice safe covering of fur to protect our skin. Letting them know gently when things are a little sore helps a lot and they will learn the right amount of pressure to apply but keep doing what is a lovely form of bonding.
This can also be an extension of grooming behaviour, a rat will nibble the fur of other rats when grooming, this helps clean dead cells, parasites etc. They often naturally start this with us too, not realising we don’t have a nice safe covering of fur to protect our skin. Letting them know gently when things are a little sore helps a lot and they will learn the right amount of pressure to apply but keep doing what is a lovely form of bonding.
Snatching or biting fingers
Generally speaking this form of biting is none aggressive, the rat will usually have a none fluffy coat, it will normally occur through the cage bars where the rat will be grasping the cage bars in its paws and will be exhibiting none of the usual aggressive behaviours. This is usually caused by the belief that all items approaching the cage are food, and can be discouraged by never feeding through the cage bars and regularly interacting with your rats through them. Occasionally it can be more aggressive and is a territorial response to something entering the rats home. Indications of this can be the rat biting down hard enough to draw blood, fluffy coat and a rat hovering menacingly at the bars once the attack is over. See territorial biting for more info
Snatching can also occur when feeding a treat outside the cage, a rat getting so excited, or so desperate to get it before their cage mates that they take the treat too fast and may miss and catch fingers. You can train a rat away from doing this behaviour by using a tiny treat hidden between your fingers. Refuse to give it to the rat until it takes it gently, you can reinforce this with a command, once it begins to gently try and take it (often licking between your fingers) congratulate them and give them the treat. Repeat a few times and your rat should learn quickly, it is worth doing this occasionally even with gentle rats to prevent any problems cropping up. A none aggressive snatch type bite is generally over fast and the rat rarely breaks the skin, it will often also seem ‘apologetic’ after the event, sometimes licking where it has just bitten.
Snatching can also occur when feeding a treat outside the cage, a rat getting so excited, or so desperate to get it before their cage mates that they take the treat too fast and may miss and catch fingers. You can train a rat away from doing this behaviour by using a tiny treat hidden between your fingers. Refuse to give it to the rat until it takes it gently, you can reinforce this with a command, once it begins to gently try and take it (often licking between your fingers) congratulate them and give them the treat. Repeat a few times and your rat should learn quickly, it is worth doing this occasionally even with gentle rats to prevent any problems cropping up. A none aggressive snatch type bite is generally over fast and the rat rarely breaks the skin, it will often also seem ‘apologetic’ after the event, sometimes licking where it has just bitten.
Territorial biting
A territorial bite generally occurs somewhere a rat feels safe that you then choose to enter. Most rats will not have a problem with you entering even their most sacred of spaces (like their beloved hammock or igloo) but occasionally hormones or learnt behaviour means a rat feels the need to defend its territory. This should not be mistaken for a ‘Fear’ bite where a rat is cornered and attacks out of a desperation to avoid the situation. A territorial rat feels that it has a right to remove you from its territory, you are the outsider in their territory and it is their job to remove you from it. This generally effects or is led by the most dominant rat in the cage, as being alpha they have the additional responsibility of protecting the whole group from any threats as well as themselves. Generally a territorial rat will either be actively aggressive; huffing and chasing any interloper out of there area, or relaxed aggressive; seemingly not bothered then take a dislike and chomp with only minor warnings at best.
Aggressive Biting
Aggressive bites happen where a rat is attempting to establish its position as the more dominant in the relationship. It is more common where rats are going through a lot of changes in hierarchy or environment so the rat in question is feeling unsettled or under threat. It can also happen with testosterone surges such as in a bucks “teenage” phase or when a doe has polycystic ovaries or other hormonal imbalance going on. These tend to be characterised by a rat exhibiting aggressive behaviour such as fluffing up, hunched, tail wagging and sidling. Often the rats body will be very tense, this is particularly common in hormonal driven aggression. Less often the rat will do this when exhibiting none of the usual warning signs seemingly out of the blue though usually this can mean we have missed something. An aggressive bite is aimed at doing damage, it is normally breaks the skin and can be quite deep. It can also be repeated or the rat may attempt to hold on (which can actually cause the main damage as the instinct is to pull back).
If you have been bitten in this way secure the rat in a carrier or similar away from others and humans and clean the wound by running it under a warm tap. Then apply an antibacterial cream or similar. If the wound is very deep or is bleeding heavily it can be worth getting checked out at your local A and E as it may need proper dressing. A minor wound can usually be covered by a plaster to keep it clean before allowing it to breath and heal after a few days. Bites near joints can cause longer term issues and if the wound swells it is worth having it checked by your doctor. Whilst pet rats are very unlikely to carry rat bite fever, if they have been in contact with wild rats or part wildies who have not been properly treated before integrating with a group this is a risk so if you have a fever or temperature after having been bitten go and speak to your doctor to be safe.
Generally speaking minor issues along these lines can be improved and often resolved completely by handling lots in a confident manner. This helps secure your place as the boss in the relationship and can often settle the aggressor down and help them relax. In cases where a hormonal driver is likely to be present and doesn’t settle down quickly it is well worth neutering the aggressor. This not only helpful in terms of reducing the rats drive to be aggressive it also helps them relax and has health and lifespan benefits too (note: it still carries a surgical risk, even though it is usually straightforward surgery for a castrate, a spay is more invasive but a good vet should perform both well). A hormonal rat is not a happy one, though it can take up to 6 weeks for rats hormones to fully subside after an operation.
If you have been bitten in this way secure the rat in a carrier or similar away from others and humans and clean the wound by running it under a warm tap. Then apply an antibacterial cream or similar. If the wound is very deep or is bleeding heavily it can be worth getting checked out at your local A and E as it may need proper dressing. A minor wound can usually be covered by a plaster to keep it clean before allowing it to breath and heal after a few days. Bites near joints can cause longer term issues and if the wound swells it is worth having it checked by your doctor. Whilst pet rats are very unlikely to carry rat bite fever, if they have been in contact with wild rats or part wildies who have not been properly treated before integrating with a group this is a risk so if you have a fever or temperature after having been bitten go and speak to your doctor to be safe.
Generally speaking minor issues along these lines can be improved and often resolved completely by handling lots in a confident manner. This helps secure your place as the boss in the relationship and can often settle the aggressor down and help them relax. In cases where a hormonal driver is likely to be present and doesn’t settle down quickly it is well worth neutering the aggressor. This not only helpful in terms of reducing the rats drive to be aggressive it also helps them relax and has health and lifespan benefits too (note: it still carries a surgical risk, even though it is usually straightforward surgery for a castrate, a spay is more invasive but a good vet should perform both well). A hormonal rat is not a happy one, though it can take up to 6 weeks for rats hormones to fully subside after an operation.
Warning bites (Aggressive)
These bites are often a precludor to a true aggressive bite, a rat will normally exhibit plenty of warning signs and will be obviously tense. Again you would expect to see some fluffing, sidling, tail wagging or hunched tense body language. A warning bite does not normally break the skin (or if it does it is not deep) but is aimed at letting you know the rat is wound up and not happy. If this occurs picking the rat up firmly, saying no and putting in a carrier of back in there cage to calm down is worthwhile. This is more common when circumstances mean the rat is feeling unsettled and wound up. During intro’s, when strange rats come to stay, in free range, when the cage hierarchy is unsettled or there has been a lot of change can cause a normally lovely rat to react like this. If the warning bites are repeated despite time to calm down then it is worth treating as an aggression problem.
Fear (warning) bites
Fear bites occur when a rat is truly terrified and sees no way out of the situation without biting to warn away a perceived aggressor. The rat will normally be cowering and exhibiting defensive behaviour like fluffing and holding their paws and teeth in front of them. For a startled fear bite they are likely to either be very relaxed and unaware or in some pain or distress. This tends to be relatively shallow if it breaks the skin and often repeated, the rat only very rarely holding on as the aim is to cause the perceived aggressor to go away and leave. This kind of biting is more common in rats who have had a bad start in life or where they are suddenly startled or in pain. It is very much an instinctive reaction and response is more complex than other bites. Generally it is well worth moving quickly to secure the rat holding firmly around the shoulders (a position that if you get right the cant bite you from) and bringing them close against you. This lets them know that that behaviour does not work to “scare” you away whilst not holding them in an insecure fashion which will make them feel worse and also making sure they are safe, as a fearful rat can bolt. After this reaction you should put them back to calm down. If it’s a one off behaviour (such as a startled or injured rat) then there is little more to worry about, however with rats with longer term fear issues then it is worth working towards socialising them to try and break down this response. It’s important to adapt your approach to the rat in question
Cheeky Bites
These are where a rat is testing what it can get away with or almost teasing. The rat normally exhibits a curious and sometimes playful body language and will typically nip quickly (rarely breaking the skin) then back off and run away. It can evolve almost into a game for some rats with this happening regularly and often multiple times in a session. Whilst it might seem minor and fun though it can lead to issues as fundamentally the rat is challenging your position. If allowed to continue or turned into a game it can eventually lead to more serious biting as the playfulness is dropped in favour of a proper aggressive challenge. Generally this is more likely to happen in bucks but it’s worth keeping an eye on in both sexes. The best way to deal with this is to not engage with it as a game, instead respond firmly picking the rat up and saying no, before putting them down and ignoring them. Repeated attempts should result in the rat being put in a boring carrier to calm down and shown that it isn’t a reward. This is more likely to happen when a rat seems you as a lower ranking member of the hierarchy, so it is worth implementing more firm dominant handling with rats that regularly do this so they learn to respect as well as want to play with you